BBB Edition Antweight Dual ESC v2
£12.00
We’ve teamed up with the manufacturer of the great antweight dual brushed ESC to make a BBB edition to improve the driving experience and specs for antweights & bodgebots! How to connect up & wire ESC below.
- Custom firmware with center braking for greatly improved driving experience
- ESC actively brings motors to a stop when the sticks are centered for better control.
- 2A per side (4A peak) – Ideal for four N20s or yellow bodgebot motors.
- Runs at 6-25VÂ so great for a variety projects, though we recommend 2S lipos for most ants!
- Weighs only 10.6g including all pre-soldered connectors and wires
- can save quite a lot of the weight by shortening wires, removing connectors
- Built in 5V 1.5A BEC for receiver and servos!
- Built in drive mixing with a switch to enable independent drive if you prefer
- the only soldering required is to the motor terminals, otherwise it’s plug and play! (see below)
Typical Setup:
N20 Motors, Power Switch, 4 channel receiver, 180Mah 2S lipo.
28 in stock
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Wiring / Connecting up Dual ESC:
Receiver Connectors (with signal mixing on by default):
- On one servo connector:
- white wire drives left/right on the motors
- red wire provides the positive rail of the BEC at 5V (+VE)
- black wire provides ground (GND)
- Separate yellow connector: drives forwards/backwards on the motors.
Example receivers/transmitters below – note your receiver & transmitter may have a different layout to this!
On an FS2A 4channel receiver with a mode 2 Flysky i6 transmitter:
- the white connector would plug in to channel 1 (AIL – right stick left/right)
- the yellow connector would plug in to channel 2 (ELE – right stick up/down)
For a DSM2 receiver with a DEVO 7E transmitter:
- white wire (left/right on the motors) plugged in to channel 2 of a DSM2 receiver which by default on our Devo 7E transmitter is left/right on the right stick (AIL) On the same connector the red wire connects to +VE and black wire to GND (as the BEC) powering our receiver.
- yellow wire (forwards/backwards on the motors) plugged in to channel 3 which is up/down on the right stick (ELE) .
Luke Handscomb (verified owner) –
What’s this? You want silly number of motors drive on an antweight and you’re worried you might cook your Malenki? Look no further! Coming in with an impressive channel rating of 2.7a you can safely run all the cheap Chinese n20s you would ever realistically want (or alternatively 2 high power n20s per channel) allowing that all wheel drive fantasy to finally come true!
One note – you can cut the capacitor off. It’s meant to smooth motor noise I think? And like it’s probably better to leave it on, but in a pinch / if you’re tight on space then… Well, I haven’t noticed a downside to just losing it yet