BBB Edition Antweight Dual ESC v2.2

(1 customer review)


We’ve teamed up with the manufacturer of the great antweight dual brushed ESC to make a BBB edition to improve the driving experience and specs for antweights & bodgebots! How to connect up & wire ESC below.

  • Custom firmware with center braking for greatly improved driving experience
    • ESC actively brings motors to a stop when the sticks are centered for better control.
  • 2A per side (4A peak) – Ideal for four N20s or yellow bodgebot motors.
  • New v2.2: 2-4S support input for higher voltage applications
  • Weighs only ~11g including all pre-soldered connectors and wires
    • can save quite a lot of the weight by shortening wires, removing connectors
  • Built in 5V 1A BEC for receiver and servos!
  • Built in drive mixing with a switch to enable independent drive if you prefer
  • the only soldering required is to the motor terminals, otherwise it’s plug and play! (see below)

Typical Setup:N20 Motors, Power Switch, 4 channel receiver, 180Mah 2S lipo.

100 in stock

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30x21x4mm (main pcb)
8mm thick capacitor at the end
(6mm longest point cap&pcb – cap can be removed)


~11g (can save a few grams once wires to motors are shortened!)

Input Voltage

2-4S Lipo recommended (6-16.8V)
up to 6S (not recommended)

Motor Output

2 channels of 2A continuous, 4A peak


onboard signal mixing with switch to turn off.

Center Braking

Built in center braking.


built in 5V 1A BEC (output through CH1 servo cable)
for powering receiver and ant sized servos
don't use BEC above 4S

Antweight Dual ESC Wiring diagram using components in this kit:

Components in this example: 2S lipo, JST connector, Switch, BBB Dual ESC, N20 Motors, Flysky Receiver.
Image made by Team DSC.
Receiver connectors on Dual ESC:

Receiver Connectors (with signal mixing on by default):

  • On one servo connector:
    • white wire drives left/right on the motors
    • red wire provides the positive rail of the BEC at 5V (+VE)
    • black wire provides ground (GND)
  • Separate yellow connector: drives forwards/backwards on the motors.

Example receivers/transmitters below – note your receiver & transmitter may have a different layout to this!

On an FS2A 4channel receiver with a mode 2 Flysky i6 transmitter:

  • the white connector would plug in to channel 1 (AIL – right stick left/right)
  • the yellow connector would plug in to channel 2 (ELE – right stick up/down)

For a DSM2 receiver with a DEVO 7E transmitter:

  • white wire (left/right on the motors) plugged in to channel 2 of a DSM2 receiver which by default on our Devo 7E transmitter is left/right on the right stick (AIL) On the same connector the red wire connects to +VE and black wire to GND (as the BEC) powering our receiver.
  • yellow wire (forwards/backwards on the motors) plugged in to channel 3 which is up/down on the right stick (ELE) .

1 review for BBB Edition Antweight Dual ESC v2.2

  1. Luke Handscomb (verified owner)

    What’s this? You want silly number of motors drive on an antweight and you’re worried you might cook your Malenki? Look no further! Coming in with an impressive channel rating of 2.7a you can safely run all the cheap Chinese n20s you would ever realistically want (or alternatively 2 high power n20s per channel) allowing that all wheel drive fantasy to finally come true!

    One note – you can cut the capacitor off. It’s meant to smooth motor noise I think? And like it’s probably better to leave it on, but in a pinch / if you’re tight on space then… Well, I haven’t noticed a downside to just losing it yet

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