BBB Beetleweight Single Brushed ESC v4
£16.50
We’re very excited to launch the very tiny version 4 of our totally custom beetleweight brushed ESCs! Version 4 is 50% smaller than our v3, and comes with all the familiar features as well as some exciting new capabilities: user-adjustable current limiting and high voltage lipo support (8S with anti-spark – 6S without) – the v4 ESC can double your robot’s performance by safely over-volting your brushed motors! They’re also a great option for overvolting brushed weapons such as 37mm motors for lifters/axes/grabbers. ESC settings can be easily adjusted using our ESC programmer (or an arduino) if you wish to configure down the line, but v4s are available in two pre-programmed variants:
- 8A (full current): the standard use case, like v3 are suitable for controlling two high power motors at typical voltages (3-4S) – they have been ran in battle on 4S in 4WD (Two 22mm motors per ESC at 4S in Abracagrabra at Brawl ’25)
- 3.5A (for overvolting): suitable for overvolting one BBB 22mm motor at 6S or 8S. The ESC set to 3.5A limit has been stress tested and works well on 6S & 8S (with anti-spark) with one BBB 22mm motor v2 without damaging it.
New for v4:
- High voltage Lipo support (8S with antispark switch / link – 6S with regular switch / link)
- Configurable current limiting (set via BBB ESC programmer / arduino bridge or ESC available in two pre-programmed levels)
- Enhanced reliability through smart over-temperature protection
- New smaller size, at just 19x11mm the v4 ESC is 50% smaller than our v3! (see second image)
- Extra BEC protection – so multiple BECs can be connected to the receiver at once
- Improved noise immunity
v3 features included:
- Center braking – brakes motors when the sticks are centred for better control
- Failsafing – no unexpected movement when transmitter is off / loses signal
- Safe Start – stick must be centred to arm (short beep/flash until stick is centred)
- Built-in BEC – enough current to power a receiver, use external BEC for servos etc
- Limit switch support – useful for certain weapon types
More about this ESC (example bot, beeps, lights, wiring, configuring, end stops, overvolting) below.
Example Robot: Abracagrabra by Rebecca Wilton
Rebecca built this magical lifter robot Abracagrabra – she runs two BBB Single Brushed ESCs – one per side each powering two BBB 22mm motors, see the wiring diagram below for how to add four motor drive to your robot.
More info about the ESC:
Please note: these are single ESCs and you will need one per drive side of your robot. You’ll need to set up mixing on your transmitter – Mixing Guide.
LED indicator light & beeps:
Start up beep = ESC has just powered on – it is receiving power and is connected to motor(s).
Solid LED = Powered on. Receiver ready, ESC is armed.
Flash & beep with short gap = Powered on. Throttle isn’t centred.
Flash & beep with long gap = Powered on. No receiver signal.
Programming:
These ESCs can be configured with a BBB ESC programmer or an arduino. You can configure the current and temperature limit, enable the limit switches and more! More info & video tutorial on the programmer page.
Wiring diagram for two or four wheel drive:
Note: You do not need to cut the red servo wire on one of the ESCs for v4s!
Components in this example: 3S or 4S Lipo, Beetle Safety Kit, Breakout cable, BBB ESCs, BBB 22mm Motors, BEC and Flysky Reciever.
Microswitch End Stops:
Useful for brushed weapons that don’t continuously rotate such as axes and lifters, you can attach a microswitch at each end of the range (as an end stop like a 3D printer or CNC) to help prevent stalling out of motors and damaging your gears – diagram for v3 below. End stop mode is off by default on the ESC and needs to be enabled with a programmer or we can ship it enabled – let us know in the order notes.
Note: on v4 ESCs : FWD = F, REV = R, COM = C
Overvolting guide:
All motors are limited by the amount of current they can draw, as electrical current generates heat and eventually burns out a motor. Combat robot motors are generally rated so that they will draw a suitable (non-firey) amount of current at the rated voltage in practice. Key background:
- A motor’s speed is proportional to the voltage used (more volts = more RPMs)
- A motor’s maximum current draw is proportional to the voltage used (more volts = more amps)
- A motor’s torque is proportional to the current draw (if the motor is heavily loaded / stalled, its producing more torque and drawing more amps)
- Heat buildup is proportional to the current draw (more amps = more heat)
Simply overvolting a motor yields more speed, current and torque but also more heat, meaning an increased risk of burning out the motor. By overvolting using an ESC with appropriate current limiting, we can still achieve higher RPMs, but keep the current draw and torque consistent, preventing any excess heat buildup. This on its own, would yield higher drive speeds. If we adjust the gear ratio to the wheels, we can boost speed and torque together!
Theoretical case study:
- A robot with BBB 22mm’s direct driven and a 4S lipo, can move at 10mph and generate torque to push a 2Kg weight.
- The same robot with 8S (and ESC’s limited to ~3.5A) can move at 20mph and generate the same torque to push a 2Kg weight.
- The same robot with an additional (e.g. 3D printed) set of gears (with a 1:1.5 ratio) can move at 15mph, and generate torque to push a 3Kg weight.
- The same robot with an additional (e.g. 3D printed) set of gears (with a 1:2 ratio) can move at the same 10mph, and generate torque to push a 4Kg weight.
Key takeaways:
- Overvolting should only be done with a current-limiting ESC set to an appropriate current limit (the limit will vary depending on your motors!) – current limiting may only be effective when driving 1 motor from 1 ESC.
- Overvolting in this fashion increases the maximum RPM of your motor, but not its torque output
- Additional gearing can be added to trade some/all of the extra RPM for extra torque.
Tom Farkas (verified owner) –
Reviewing v3:
These new v3 ones are fantastic. I’m currently using them to drive a servo in Pawsitively Hissterical, and they are great. Plus, with the motor wires pre-soldered it’s even easier to get your beetle moving.
Stuart (verified owner) –
Reviewing v3:
Fantastic Product. I ran 2 of these on 2 of the Dragon motors (12 amp stall each) from Just Cuz and they’re performed perfectly 5 matches in a row. I took some decent hits on the day as well. The smaller form factor made fitting everything in so easy. Highly Recommend
Stuart (verified owner) –
Reviewing v2:
Work perfectly. I ran 2 of these on 4 x 22mm BBB motors at 4S for 11 minutes and didn’t even get hot.
Thyrus (verified owner) –
Reviewing v2:
Worked like a charm
Reira Granger (verified owner) –
Reviewing v1:
Worked beautifully at Rapture in Metis, work nicely on 4S and withstand some real punishment. Reliable, easy to use and set up, and great value. Highly recommend!
Rhys (verified owner) –
Reviewing v1:
Have not set fire 10/10.
Chris Thompson (verified owner) –
Reviewing v1:
Using these in my first beatle. Very quick and easy to set up and the start up tune is usefull for indicating everything is working well. Will end up getting another when the time comes to set up a weapons system using a motor rather than servo
Jon-Luke Buckley (Igor) (verified owner) –
Reviewing v1:
These are the ESCs I’m now using in Igor, and quite happily drive 2 of the 22mm motors each. I’ve had no problems so far, would highly recommend to any beetle builder.
Greg Atkin (verified owner) –
Reviewing v1:
I’m very new to the beetleweight scene but after dealing with VEX29s for my first build these things are a godsend. Light and simple to use and come pre-wired without needing to worry about chopping and changing. I’ve not exploded one yet (fingers crossed) but can honestly say these are great.