BETA RUN: BBB Beetleweight Single Brushed ESC v4

£16.50

We’re very excited to launch the beta run of version 4 of our totally custom beetleweight brushed ESCs! Version 4 is 50% smaller than our v3, and comes with all the familiar features as well as some exciting new capabilities: user-adjustable current limiting and high voltage lipo support (8S with anti-spark – 6S without) – the v4 ESC can double your robot’s performance by safely over-volting your brushed motors! They’re also a great option for overvolting brushed weapons such as 37mm motors for lifters/axes/grabbers. ESC settings can be easily adjusted using our ESC programmer (or an arduino) if you wish to configure down the line, but v4s are available in two pre-programmed variants: 

  • 8A (full current): the standard use case, like v3 are suitable for controlling two high power motors at typical voltages (3-4S) – they  have been ran in battle on 4S in 4WD (Two 22mm motors per ESC at 4S in Abracagrabra at Brawl ’25) 
  • 3.5A (for overvolting): suitable for overvolting one BBB 22mm motor at 6S or 8S. The ESC set to 3.5A limit has been stress tested and works well on 6S & 8S (with anti-spark) with one BBB 22mm motor v2 without damaging it. 

New for v4:

  • High voltage Lipo support (8S with antispark switch / link – 6S with regular switch / link)
  • Configurable current limiting (set via BBB ESC programmer / arduino bridge or ESC available in two pre-programmed levels)
  • Enhanced reliability through smart over-temperature protection
  • New smaller size, at just 19x11mm the v4 ESC is 50% smaller than our v3! (see second image)
  • Extra BEC protection – so multiple BECs can be connected to the receiver at once
  • Improved noise immunity

v3 features included:

  • Center braking – brakes motors when the sticks are centred for better control
  • Failsafing – no unexpected movement when transmitter is off / loses signal
  • Safe Start – stick must be centred to arm (short beep/flash until stick is centred)
  • Built-in BEC – enough current to power a receiver, use external BEC for servos etc
  • Limit switch support – useful for certain weapon types

More about this ESC (beeps, lights, wiring, configuring, end stops, overvolting) below.

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Size

19x11x5mm (main pcb)

Weight

~6g (can save weight shortening wires)

Input Voltage

2-6S
6-8S (with anti-spark)

Motor Output

Configurable 0-10A (Current Limited)
Pre-programmed limit set to either 8A or 3.5A

Center Braking

Built in. Motors stopped by zero signal.

BEC

3.3V 0.1A

Brand:

More info about the ESC:

Please note: these are single ESCs and you will need one per drive side of your robot. You’ll need to set up mixing on your transmitter – Mixing Guide.

LED indicator light & beeps:
Start up beep = ESC has just powered on – it is receiving power and is connected to motor(s).
Solid LED = Powered on. Receiver ready, ESC is armed.
Flash & beep with short gap = Powered on. Throttle isn’t centred.
Flash & beep with long gap = Powered on. No receiver signal.

Programming:
These ESCs can be configured with a BBB ESC programmer or an arduino. You can configure the current and temperature limit, enable the limit switches and more! More info  & video tutorial on the programmer page.

Wiring diagram for two or four wheel drive:

Note: You do not need to cut the red servo wire on one of the ESCs for v4s!
Components in this example: 3S or 4S Lipo, Beetle Safety KitBreakout cableBBB ESCsBBB 22mm MotorsBEC and Flysky Reciever.

Microswitch End Stops:

Useful for brushed weapons that don’t continuously rotate such as axes and lifters, you can attach a microswitch at each end of the range (as an end stop like a 3D printer or CNC) to help prevent stalling out of motors and damaging your gears  – diagram for v3 below.
Note: on v4 ESCs : FWD = F, REV = R, COM = C

image

Overvolting guide:

All motors are limited by the amount of current they can draw, as electrical current generates heat and eventually burns out a motor. Combat robot motors are generally rated so that they will draw a suitable (non-firey) amount of current at the rated voltage in practice. Key background:

  • A motor’s speed is proportional to the voltage used (more volts = more RPMs)
  • A motor’s maximum current draw is proportional to the voltage used (more volts = more amps)
  • A motor’s torque is proportional to the current draw (if the motor is heavily loaded / stalled, its producing more torque and drawing more amps)
  • Heat buildup is proportional to the current draw (more amps = more heat)

Simply overvolting a motor yields more speed, current and torque but also more heat, meaning an increased risk of burning out the motor. By overvolting using an ESC with appropriate current limiting, we can still achieve higher RPMs, but keep the current draw and torque consistent, preventing any excess heat buildup. This on its own, would yield higher drive speeds. If we adjust the gear ratio to the wheels, we can boost speed and torque together!

Theoretical case study:

  • A robot with BBB 22mm’s direct driven and a 4S lipo, can move at 10mph and generate torque to push a 2Kg weight.
  • The same robot with 8S (and ESC’s limited to ~3.5A) can move at 20mph and generate the same torque to push a 2Kg weight.
  • The same robot with an additional (e.g. 3D printed) set of gears (with a 1:1.5 ratio) can move at 15mph, and generate torque to push a 3Kg weight.
  • The same robot with an additional (e.g. 3D printed) set of gears (with a 1:2 ratio) can move at the same 10mph, and generate torque to push a 4Kg weight.

Key takeaways:

  • Overvolting should only be done with a current-limiting ESC set to an appropriate current limit (the limit will vary depending on your motors!) – current limiting may only be effective when driving 1 motor from 1 ESC.
  • Overvolting in this fashion increases the maximum RPM of your motor, but not its torque output
  • Additional gearing can be added to trade some/all of the extra RPM for extra torque.

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