BBB Featherweight Brushed ESC v2

(4 customer reviews)


v2: slimmer & lighter form factor, pre-programmed with center braking! 
This ESC is designed to easily run one 775 or two 550 style drill motors or one scooter motor (for axes etc) at up to 6S with 100A peak, it’s a great value featherweight drive ESC.

  • 6S lipo support – we recommend 3-5S for our 18V drill motors
  • Only 52g in weight & 13mm at max thickness for easily fitting in tight spaces!
  • Can drive two 550 drill motors per ESC – two of these ESCs are well suited for 2 or 4 wheel drive.
  • Center braking  for improved driving experience
  • Failsafing – no unexpected movement when transmitter is off / loses signal
  • Safe start –  stick must be centered to arm
  • Built in 5V 3A BEC – for powering receivers etc.

Do not use two BECs at a time –  if using two ESCs cut the red servo connector wire on one of them, if using an external BEC, cut both. Circuit diagrams below.
LED & Wiring Instructions below. v1 Fusion 360 CAD file from Jeremy, thanks!
These ESCs are used reliably on many featherweight robots, for example: drill drive on Couch Potato XL, Mucha Lucha, Kyrkja and scooter weapon motor on Dullahan, Untitled Goose Robot and Grab Crab XL.

32 in stock

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62x36x11mm (main board)
80x36x13mm (including caps)


52g including wires

Input Voltage

3-6S lipo (10.5-26V)

Motor Output

50A continuous
100A peak

Center Braking

Built in. Motors stopped by zero signal.
Switch must be set to middle to enable.


5V 3A BEC built in

LED indicator light:

Solid = Powered on. Receiver ready.
Intermittent Flash = Powered on. Throttle isn’t centred.
Continuous Flash = Powered on. No receiver signal.


Solder the two black wires (labelled M1&M2) to the tabs of your drive motor(s).
Solder the red wire (labelled +) to your positive line and adjacent black wire (labelled -) to your negative line.
Connect the servo connector to your receiver – note only use one BEC, so cut red wire on servo connector of one ESC if using two, or cut both and use an external BEC (recommended) – see diagrams below.

Switch: (only on v1 ESC, not the new v2s!)

(after changing switch position power cycle ESC to enable) 
Left = No braking
Middle = Centre braking (our preferred setup for driving featherweights)
Right = RC Car style braking (not recommended)

Using external BEC – ESC’s BECS (red servo wire) are disconnected / cut:

Image made by Team DSC.

Using one of ESC’s internal BECs – other ESC’s red servo wire is disconnected / cut:

4 reviews for BBB Featherweight Brushed ESC v2

  1. Mark Robson

    Really well built, lots of good gubbins inside (6x mosfet per side per phase =24 mosfets total).

    Tested it on the workbench, runs big motors just fine. Centre braking seems really strong which is good.

    Seems to require a low/high/centre throttle sequence to arm the ESC, it disarms if it receives no pulses for a while. This is safe if (e.g.) a receiver becomes unplugged or fails.

    I was wondering if there is an indicator LED – there is (it’s blue) – but under the black heatshrink it can’t be seen. You can replace the black with transparent heatshrink and see the leds.

    Great product, seems close to indistructible construction.

  2. Nicholas Cole

    Used in a new featherweight to power a linear actuator on 3S. Did so flawlessly and was very easy to integrate into my existing circuit. Neatly packaged, by that I mean both the ESC itself, and the package it arrived in. Plenty of headroom to experiment with 4S or 5S in the future. I would recommend to anyone based on my experience of the ESC.

  3. Rhys

    Used 3 on Kyrkja (4wd), 2 fev motors ran easily on a single ESC. Used one on a scootie motor. Entire robot was destroyed, all ESCs survived. Magic.

  4. Jack (verified owner)

    Ran three of these in my new bev feather, mucha lucha. Two running the drive (18v drills) and one running the big ole scootie that powers my flipper all at 5S.

    All three of them run perfectly and were as close to plug and go as you get. Easy to use and so far very reliable. Do recommend

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