BBB Edition Antweight Dual ESC v3
£12.50
BBB edition antweight dual brushed ESC – improving the driving experience and specs for ants! This version 3 is over 40% smaller and over a gram lighter (most of the weight is the wires still!) than v2, but with all the great specs! How to connect up & wire ESC below. Please read our Antweight Drive Kit Build Guide for step by step wiring guide.
- Custom firmware with center braking for greatly improved driving experience
- ESC actively brings motors to a stop when the sticks are centered for better control.
- 2A per side (4A peak) – Ideal for two or four N10s or N20s.
- 2-4S support input for higher voltage applications
- Weighs only ~7g including all pre-soldered connectors with the motor wires cut to length
- can save quite a lot of the weight by shortening wires, removing connectors & direct soldering to receiver
- Built in 5V 1A BEC for receiver and servos!
- Built in drive mixing, which can be disabled (see below)
- the only soldering required is to the motor terminals, otherwise it’s plug and play! (see below)
43 in stock
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Antweight Dual ESC Wiring diagram using components in this kit:
Components in this example: 2S lipo, JST connector, Switch, BBB Dual ESC, N20 Motors, Flysky Receiver.
Image made by Team DSC.
Receiver connectors on Dual ESC:
Receiver Connectors (with signal mixing on by default):
- On one servo connector:
- white wire drives left/right on the motors
- red wire provides the positive rail of the BEC at 5V (+VE)
- black wire provides ground (GND)
- Separate yellow connector: drives forwards/backwards on the motors.
Example receivers/transmitters below – note your receiver & transmitter may have a different layout to this!
On an Flysky 4 channel receiver with a mode 2 Flysky i6 transmitter:
- the white connector would plug in to channel 1 (AIL – right stick left/right)
- the yellow connector would plug in to channel 2 (ELE – right stick up/down)
Disable on-board channel mixing:
Solder to connect the two pads circled in red below (marked “i” or “1” on the PCB) to disable the on-board mixing. Remove the solder jumper to re-enable mixing.
Luke Handscomb –
Reviewing v2:
What’s this? You want silly number of motors drive on an antweight and you’re worried you might cook your Malenki? Look no further! Coming in with an impressive channel rating of 2.7a you can safely run all the cheap Chinese n20s you would ever realistically want (or alternatively 2 high power n20s per channel) allowing that all wheel drive fantasy to finally come true! One note – you can cut the capacitor off. It’s meant to smooth motor noise I think? And like it’s probably better to leave it on, but in a pinch / if you’re tight on space then… Well, I haven’t noticed a downside to just losing it yet
Chris Thompson –
Reviewing v1:
Perfect for anyone starting out thats any wanting to get building but unsure about BECs, voltage or setting up channep mixing and for any one that just started out soldering as only the motors need attaching.
Jon-Luke Buckley (Igor) –
Reviewing v1:
A very good controller, no-nonsense setup and easy to use. It is quite large, but is still relatively easy to fit in to most ant builds. Built-in signal mixing is a nice touch. Would recommend.